Leonardo's Delicatessen

Ceris Brunzel-Roberts and her husband Andreas, a chef, opened Leonardo's on Well Street in Ruthin in 2000, and have run it as a proper made-on-the-premises deli ever since — pies, quiches and patés turned out in the kitchen, built on named local suppliers: Welsh Black beef from Bala, pork from Mochyn Melyn, chicken from Tyn y Celyn, dairy from Coed Du Farm. The pies are the thing — one took a commendation at the British Pie Awards — and the shop is the kind of independent that anchors a small market town's food. Ruthin is a handsome old Denbighshire town; Leonardo's is where its cooks and its visitors shop. Go for the pies.