Coakley-Greene

Coakley-Greene has sold fish in Swansea since 1856, which makes it older than the market it trades in. Adrian Coakley-Greene is the fourth generation behind the slab — his great-grandmother started the business on Great Street, it moved into the market in the 1950s, and his father Francis ran it when the present Swansea Market opened on Oxford Street in 1961. Swansea Market is the largest indoor market in Wales, a proper working one rather than a heritage exhibit, and Coakley-Greene is one of the reasons it still matters: a wet-fish counter with the day's catch on ice, the Gower and the Bristol Channel on the doorstep, and a family that has been filleting for the city for the better part of two centuries. Buy the fish here and you are buying into a line of fishmongers that predates most of modern Wales. The kind of stall a market is lucky to keep.