Slate Cheese

John Ormerod and his daughter Clare Jackson took over Aldeburgh's celebrated Lawson's Delicatessen in January 2017 and rebranded it Slate — the succession told plainly, since the town still remembers the old name fondly — then opened a Southwold sibling before the year was out, disclosed here as the pair. The counter's centrepiece is the wall of cheese, British and European artisan makers stacked to browsing height, with the bread, charcuterie and picnic provisions a coastal town demands in season; the Guild of Fine Food gave the newcomers its newcomer award at the shop-of-the-year event, and a monthly Cheese Club posts the wall's best to those who winter elsewhere.