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James Elliott has been the butcher on Essex Road in Islington since 1950 — a long-established, family-owned shop of the traditional sort, hung with game in season, with a deli counter of cheese and cooked meats alongside the block. It has kept a proper butcher's on a busy inner-London road through seventy-odd years of change, a single shop rather than a name over several. In an Islington of estate agents and coffee chains, it is the real, useful thing. Ask them to bone and roll it for you.
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