Hanson atthe Chelsea

Andrew Hanson has cooked at the Chelsea, on St Mary Street in the middle of Swansea, since 2007 — a chef-owner restaurant built on the fish landed on this coast, held for years as one of the city's best places to eat. It carries an AA rosette and a place in the Michelin guide, but the point of it is simpler than that: a proper independent restaurant, run by the chef whose name is over the door, in a city that has not always kept enough of them. Swansea Bay is on the plate. Book the seafood.