The Farquharsons have held the Finzean estate on Deeside since the fifteen-hundreds, which is a long time to be anywhere; the farm shop is the recent part, opened in 2006 by Catriona and Kate Farquharson to sell what the land and the wider north-east produce. It sits deep in the countryside south of Banchory, a tearoom and shop on a working family estate, and the appeal is exactly that combination — estate-reared and local meat, Scottish larder staples, home baking, eaten looking out at the hills the family has farmed for four centuries. Farm shops live or die on whether they are the real thing or a themed version of it; Finzean is unambiguously the real thing, run by the family whose name is on the glen. A proper Deeside detour, and a reminder that the oldest way of owning land can still make room for a good scone.
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