Milk

Julian Porter and Lauren Johns opened Milk on Bedford Hill in 2012 and built the café Balham queues for — first come, first served, no bookings, the neighbouring unit annexed when the queue made the argument unanswerable. The cooking is the antipodean-brunch school done at full seriousness, and the guides that rank such things have kept it at or near the top of Balham's table for a decade. The couple's Tooting sibling, Juliet's, is disclosed as the operation's other half; two rooms, two postcodes, one kitchen sensibility.