Mary and Alexander Duff started with a rented filleting table in 1973; fifty years on, their fishmonger at Bridge of Don is run by their sons Paul and Zander, with a third generation, grandsons Hayden and Owen, already on the shop floor. Aberdeen is a fishing city, and a proper independent fishmonger there ought to be a given — but they have thinned out everywhere, which makes a family firm still cutting and filleting to order, fifty years deep, worth going out of the way for. The counter is the retail face of a business that also supplies restaurants and chip shops across the north-east, so the turnover is high and the fish is fresh in the way only volume allows. Three generations, one family, and the North Sea landed that morning: this is what a fishing city's fishmonger should look like, and too rarely still does.
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