Carmine and Amalia Coia, from Filignano in the Italian mountains, opened their café on Dennistoun's Duke Street in 1928, and it has passed down the family in the classic way — to Nicky and Ena in the fifties, to Alfredo and Antonia in the eighties, the third generation running it today. In 2006 they expanded into new premises next door with a deli and takeaway, extending the original landmark without diluting it. Dennistoun has become one of Glasgow's most talked-about neighbourhoods lately; Coia's was the anchor of its high street for the better part of a century before the magazines noticed, serving breakfasts, ice cream and fish suppers to an east-end clientele that never needed telling the place was good.
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