Skosh

Neil Bentinck opened Skosh, his first restaurant, on Micklegate in York in 2016 — small plates that roam from Japan to the Middle East to Yorkshire, cooked with a lightness and invention that has made it one of the most talked-about tables in the north. It is chef-owned and single-site, expanded a little into the property next door in 2024 but otherwise unchanged in ambition. In a tourist city thick with mediocre eating, Skosh is the real, personal thing. Sit at the counter and let the small plates keep coming.