Zucco

Zucco occupies an unassuming corner unit on Meanwood Road, run by brothers Michael and Rosario Leggiero after Rosario returned from working front of house at Russell Norman's original Polpo in London. Michael cooks; Rosario runs the floor; and the menu is built around small plates meant for sharing, four to seven dishes between two, ranging from pizzette and cured meats to fresh pasta and whole fish depending on what the market offers that week. Their sons Matteo and Joe now work alongside them, making it a two-generation operation. The room is plain and close-packed rather than polished, with wine chosen to match the food rather than dominate the list. Bookings are recommended for weekend evenings. The restaurant keeps no fixed printed menu, changing dishes with the seasons and with whatever the fish counter has that morning.