The Nivens have farmed at Gloagburn, west of Perth, since 1924, when John Niven came over from Fife; three generations on, Ian and Alison Niven turned part of it into a farm shop and coffee shop in 2003, and a fourth generation — Fergus — is now on the company's books. It has grown into a proper destination: a hundred-and-thirty-cover café doing breakfast through afternoon tea, a farm shop with its own butchery, and a gift room, all of it on the working farm. The meat is the point — reared or sourced close and cut in-house — but the café is what fills the car park, seven days a week from half past eight. Farm shops can drift into gift-hamper territory and forget the farm; Gloagburn hasn't, because the family working the tills is the family working the land. A century in, still Nivens, still farming.
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